They say the people of Jelsa are born and die with a cross. Procession Jelsa is a traditional religious ceremony of celebrating Easter and is of great importance for the island and the Hvar population. It is a specific and unique Christian ritual that represents the religious and cultural identity of this part of Hvar. It was developed in a period of great social turmoil, just before the rebellion of the Hvar peasants in the 16th century. There are several stories about how this procession came about. The first says that it was a sign of repentance after a small cross in the town of Hvar had marvelously leaked with blood. The second narrates how the procession came about after the central places of the island were separated from the church authorities of the whole island of Hvar. In any case, the Procession is the expression of devotion and submission for the islanders, and it is a great honor to be its cross-holder. The specialty of the procession is in its ceremonial ritual that will not leave you indifferent.
It is held on the big Thursday night and it links the six island destinations: Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj, and Vrboska. The Procession always starts at 22 h, and it takes 8 hours to pass the distance of about 25 kilometers. At the forefront of each procession is a specially chosen cross holder wearing an 18 kg heavy cross covered with a black veil. The cross holders are dressed in white tunics. The chosen escort of believers and pilgrims walk behind them, equally dressed in brotherly dresses, and the queue stops in the churches at each of the destinations mentioned before. There is a specific movement of people walking clockwise, with the intention that the crosses never meet in that long walk. The procession is named "Za križen" and it represents a cultural phenomenon that connects and gathers all generations, and has remained the center of island events throughout the centuries.
It is included in the UNESCO list of protected intangible heritage in 2009 and is one of 13 phenomena of Croatian culture. Plan your vacation at this time of year and rent accommodation in Jelsa or elsewhere in Hvar to experience the beauty of the simplicity of the island's lifestyle and islanders who are accustomed to living with little, but dignified.
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